#Raspberry pi 2 fldigi serial number
So, many MANY thanks to the guys at AmateurLogic. In the Serial number section we’ve told Fldigi to start the contest count from 0 and use three digits, based on this the first serial generated will be 001 In FLDigi, select Configure from the top menu 3 Talend Rest Client In FLDigi, select Configure from the top menu 3. On mostly less busy days, I'll stick with "medium" overclock. gMFSK (which works well with xLog), uses about half the cpu as FLDIGI, but if I can keep it working, I'll stick with FLDIGI. I've yet to see "top" report 100%, but I'm sure it's hitting that sometimes. I bumped it up to "high" (950 MHz, 6 overvolt), rebooted, and copy got a bit cleaner.įLDIGI is running 55-65% cpu utilization, and Xwindows is taking 25-30% feeding a 1280 x 800 HDMI monitor with all this motion. At this point, overclock was on "medium" (900 MHz, 2 overvolt).
I bumped the squelch on it up to 6.0 to keep the number of streaming contacts down to 4-5 and copy got cleaner. The "Signal Browser" was showing strings of mostly correctly decoded contacts. This being Field Day, the waterfall looked like the upper levels of Missile Command. So I QSY'd over to 14.070 and reset the FLDIGI modem to BPSK31. A correction of -90 made it literally vertical. I fired up FLDIGI WWV with the K3 on 10MHz and got an almost vertical line. I jumped up and rewired my setup, plugging the Griffin iMic (that connects to Line In/Line out of the Elecraft K3) directly into the Pi. That was my problem-the latency of that hub! Like so many, I've gotten used to connecting everything to a powered hub to save power drawn from the Pi. They made the point it was critical to have the USB soundcard plugged directly into the Pi and not through an external hub.
#Raspberry pi 2 fldigi tv
Using the latter's WWV calibration, the one-second blips were almost a horizontal line rather than a vertical one, and timing between them was erratic.įortunately, today I came across Amateur Logic TV Episode #53 where they took on the question, "Will the Raspberry Pi decode PSK31?" Using a stock Pi, they found FLDIGI a bit too resource intensive, but had success with LinPSK, using the guide at the A Slice of Raspberry Pi blog. PSK31: Fldigi to DroidPSK from charlesreid1 on Vimeo.Like so many, I've not had much luck decoding PSK31, even with overclock on high (950 MHz), and even with lightweight apps, much less FLDIGI. You'll also see that the receiver is very sensitive to what portion of the audio spectrum it is listening to, so if you're off by even a little bit, the received message will be garbled. The stop transmit button is in the bottom right part of the window. Then you right-click on the bottom half of the fldigi window, and click Transmit, and it will start transmitting.įor some dumb reason, you have to manually stop transmission, or it'll just keep an open tone going forever. The RP1 and RP2 are excellent platforms for goofing around with all the various projects you can do with them. You can type messages into the bottom portion, or click the Macro buttons to insert predefined sequences. The RP2 is hands down a better performer over the RP1. While the interface is a bit awkward, it is pretty straightforward to figure out what to do. You can start out easy, and go from there.įirst thing you're asked to do when starting fldigi is to register your callsign and name information. This program is uber powerful, and very complicated.
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